The ebb of summer gave our group a first opportunity to visit One Restaurant and Lounge in the nearby town of Mason. Situated in a converted municipal building, One has been gaining acclaim since it opened in 2005. We met at the cozy Red Room for a vast array of appetizers including stuffed mushrooms, apple compote served in a spoon, and miniature quiches. Libations were flowing with a choice of Lassaigne Champagne or Jean Masson Apremont Vin de Savoie, a familiar beverage to patrons of ski slopes in the French Alps.
We then proceeded to the Chandelier Room with tiled walls that hinted at its original use as a garage for fire engines, now updated with light fabrics, elegant seating and contemporary lighting. Our first course was an imaginative heirloom tomato gazpacho with a globe of avocado sorbet at the center. A good balance of coriander and other spices with the creamy green and tart red aspects was well matched to a young Mauro Molino Barbera d’Alba showing a cleansing acidity and good fruit depth. Our second salad course contrasted with many sweet flavors from fresh goat cheese, candied pecans, and honey blossom vinaigrette complemented by a Gamay Noir Rosé from Edmunds St. John. A hint of strawberry in the nose and lush dry fruit gave this nod to Beaujolais a wistful sense of the end of summer in a glass.
Next came a delicate presentation of lobster stuffed prawn with an aromatic pine nut crust that led to a light tasty essence of Asian influences. This was coupled with a ripe powerful Talbott Chardonnay and classic tropical notes that gave another excellent synergy of food and wine. Our main course was a layered construction of filet, foie gras, and scallop dressed with a Pinot Noir and pomegranate sauce. Many gustatory layers showed as well with herbal aromas leading to the variety of succulent meats combined with the complex sauce and subtext of lime in the accompanying potatoes. A Calera Pinot Noir served along side started with a great Burgundian perfume which segued to a rich spicy dark fruit on the palate in classic California style.
Our evening included special guest Conseiller Gastronomique des Etats-Unis Roger Tracy which gave occasion to extol the virtues of Chaîne membership to guests and formally induct Chevalier David Szkutak, who missed our spring ceremonies while traveling in Bordeaux. This added an extra flair to the evening festivities which ended with a dessert trio of black raspberry sorbet, vanilla custard, and chocolate mousse brownie. Chef-Owner Sean Kagy gave undeniable proof that his restaurant has embodied “One” in substance as well as name.
J.T. Mayer, Vice Chargé de Presse