A great buzz has gone through local culinary circles surrounding the relocation and upgrading of the restaurant Boca. Chef David Falk and his staff have brought themselves to the top of almost every restaurant list with a flair for imaginative skillful dishes and great service. Our bailliage was happy to return to Boca in its new iteration and take over the premises for an rare private affair. We met at the cozy bar area with familiar faces, new guests, and the occasional relative from across the seas. Chef Falk prepared a duet of canapés served with Egly-Ouriet Tradition Brut NV, one of the finer small estate Champagnes. The food choices included a crostini with prosciutto, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, and olive oil or an artisan Italian tuna pâte, also with extra virgin olive oil to give a smooth buttery texture. Talbott Cuvee Cynthia Chardonnay 2001 gave a wonderful rich alternative which also proved a great match for these treats.
We sat for our first course and were welcomed with wood grilled prawn on an ingenious shaved zucchini with hints of mint and lemon to blend with subtle smoke. This theme of masterful combinations was to develop as Chef Falk put a delicate nuance of flavors into every dish. The prawn came with a refreshing Tenuta La Calcinaie Vernaccia 2004 that was a pure expression of ripe fruit. Next was a cheese filled squid ink capalacci that seemed magical with buttery herbal notes underpinned by truffles that gave a lasting substance. Matched by a Livingston Genny’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2001 we found a culinary combination both beautiful and a trial to strive above and beyond.
Our chef towered over this challenge serving Kurobuta pork with braised Swiss chard and pancetta. This was a step up with more bracing tastes and contrasts in robust herbs and slight sweetness to complement the bitter chard and succulent pork. Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2000 shown with the food gave a gallant support with a fantastic chewiness, thick chocolate mouth feel, and lasting finish. The final meat course brought us to a gastronomic peak of wood grilled lamb chop set atop a spicy mix of broccoli rabe, Basmati rice, and Italian sausage. Such a bold presentation was sustained by no less than two great wines! First came a rare Corino L’Insieme 1999 with a heady perfumed nose, deep sweet flavors met with bittersweet chocolate notes, and a full even body. Adding to this exceptional Piedmont bottling was a Dei Sancta Catharina 2001 from Tuscany showing dark complexity in a clean essence.
To gently glide us back down the slope our chef finished the repast with a soft maple cheesecake dressed with candied hazelnuts and a side pour of Dutschke Old Codger Tawny Port. We heartily agreed that this was an unparalleled dinner from the best talent in the area. Chef David Falk, Sommelier Paul Ortiz, and the diligent staff at Boca outdid themselves with a culinary masterpiece at the top!
J.T. Mayer, Vice Chargé de Presse